The desk of Zhou Dewen, the association's head, must be ten feet long. But he still does most of his talking on the couch or in a nearby restaurant where he entertains visiting businessmen. In his office, Mr Zhou hears a pitch from Mao Shuhui, who runs the province's first and only etiquette company. Her clients include the local tax office and a number of mostly state-owned banks. Their staff sometimes need a few pointers, she says. Their hair can be messy and their gestures impolite. Placing a finger on each corner of her mouth, she teaches them how to smile as though they mean it.