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Developed by Howard Dill to win a giant pumpkin contest, "Dill's Atlantic Giant" pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo "Dill's Atlantic Giant") may produce fruit weighing 200 to over 1,000 pounds. These warm-season vegetables thrive in full sunlight and fast-draining, fertile soils with a pH of 5.8 to 7.2. Hardy in most U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones, "Dill's Atlantic Giant" plants require at least 120 days of temperatures 60 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer to produce a mature pumpkin. Sow seeds two to three weeks after the last frost date, once soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Sponsored LinkFly Bangkok to Chiang MaiWith 20% Off Promo from AirAsia Book Now. Offer Ends 8 Mar 2015.www.airasia.com/ChiangMai1Remove weeds, rocks and debris from a planting site with a diameter of 25 feet, space enough for five vines. Spread a 4- to 6-inch-deep layer of compost over the ground with a rake. Broadcast 1/2 pound of 10-10-10 nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium granular fertilizer evenly over the entire site. Mix the compost and fertilizer into the top 10 to 12 inches of soil with a garden fork or rototiller. Smooth the soil's surface with the rake.2Build up a hill of soil, 2 to 3 feet wide and 3 to 4 inches tall, in the planting site. Pat the top of the hill to flatten its peak. Space multiple hills 8 to 10 feet apart.3Poke four to five holes, 1 inch deep, in the top of each hill. Space the individual holes 1 inch apart. Place one "Dill's Atlantic Giant" pumpkin seed in the bottom of each hole. Fill in each hole with 1 inch of soil, tamping it down firmly. Water the planting site thoroughly using a garden hose.4Check the soil each day for signs of moisture loss. Water the soil when the top 1/2 to 1 inch begins to dry. Keep the soil evenly moist and avoid over watering to the point of developing soggy soil. Watch for germination six to 10 days after planting.5Water pumpkin seedlings when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil becomes dry. Water the plants in the morning to allow time for the foliage to dry before nightfall. Never let the soil dry out completely or become soggy.6Thin the number of seedlings growing in each hill to one when the plants reach 2 inches in height or develop three true leaves. Cut through the bases of the weakest plants with a pair of pruning shears. Do not pull the seedlings up, as this could damage the root system of the remaining seedling.7Pull weeds from the planting site as they appear. Spread a 1-inch layer of mulch over the planting site to reduce weed growth and maintain soil moisture. Keep the mulch 3 to 4 inches from each plant's center to keep the stems from rotting.8Spread 1/4 cup of 10-10-10 N-P-K fertilizer in a ring around each plant when it reaches 12 to 15 inches in height and is producing running vines. Keep the fertilizer 3 to 6 inches away from the plant's center to avoid burning it. Rake the fertilizer into the top 3 to 4 inches of soil. Water the area thoroughly to activate the fertilizer. Make additional, identical applications every four to six weeks throughout the remainder of the growing season.9Cut off all but the three best fruits from each plant once they reach 2 to 3 inches in diameter. Pick the blossoms from the pumpkin plants each day to avoid the formation of additional pumpkins. Cut the terminal ends off of the plants' vines with a pair of pruning shears, slicing through the stems 1/4 inch above their first or second sets of leaves below the tips, to divert the plants' energy from forming additional blossoms to feeding the remaining fruit.10Thin the pumpkins to one fruit per plant once they reach 6 inches in diameter. Cut through the stems just above each fruit with pruning shears. Keep the best shaped fruit on the vine to grow further.11Roll the remaining pumpkins onto individual sheets of cardboard or plywood to protect them from insects and soil-borne diseases. Turn each pumpkin one-quarter of a turn every one to two weeks until the pumpkin becomes too heavy to turn easily, ensuring an evenly rounded shape. Move the pumpkins carefully so as not to break their stems.12Cut through the stem of each pumpkin with pruning shears to harvest it from its plant. Harvest the pumpkins before the first fall frost date, once they develop a fully orange skin and reach the desired sizeFruit Carefruitcare* You will need to place something under your pumpkin for it to grow on that allows water to drain as well as prevent pests from tunneling into your fruit from below. Many people use a 3" or 4" bed of play sand while still others are now using belt material discarded by paper mills. As long as it allows drainage and prevents critters from destroying your fruit from below, you can use a number of different things. The most important characteristic of the material you use for a bed is that it allows the fruit to grow and expand, unrestricted and with minimal resistance. If a material such as styrofoam with holes in it is used, the chances of the friction between the fruit skin and the foam causing the fruit to grow concave on the bottom increases, and thereby increasing the risk of a bottom split. * Another form of stress mentioned briefly above is stem stress. Your pumpkin will grow at astonishing rates from mid-July to mid-August in some cases gaining 20 to 40 lbs. a day. This rapid growth can put tension on the pumpkin stem as the fruit grows in height and its shoulders grow toward the vine. Cutting the tap roots under the 3 leaves in either direction of the fruit will allow the vine to move upward as the pumpkin grows. Supporting the vine as it curves upward toward the stem is also a common practice. Insure the vine does not rub against the fruit itself. You can train the vine by carefully pulling it away from the fruit shoulders with cushioned pieces of cloth. This method takes practice to learn and can run the risk of popping the fruit off the vine so use extreme caution when performing this method and only pull what the vine will allow every few days. Cut off any leaves that impede access to the fruit or may be rubbing against the skin of the pumpkin. * Your pumpkin can gain such large amounts daily because the skin is very pliable early on. However cracks in both the skin and stem do occur. It’s natural for the stem to develop splits and heal over as it grows in size, however deep splits are an issue. If a split or crack in the skin of the pumpkin goes deep enough to enter the inner cavity of your fruit, your season is over, as the fruit will begin to rot very quickly. Many large pumpkins develop deep stem splits that do not go into the cavity, however if not cared for, they can continue to go deeper and ruin your season.
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