A Thailand Travelogue
From East London to Bangkok, Koh Samui, Phuket and Chiang Rai. Stories and photos from my visits to Thailand
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Saturday, 19 March 2011
Mai Dai!! ไม่ได้!! (Thai language and dealings with government employees)
If you have been in, or visited Thailand for any length of time and have a grasp of even a smattering of the language, I guarantee you have heard this phrase many times!
First, let's delve into the linguistics a little shall we?
It's often the case when learning a second language that, instinctively, the learner searches for a direct translation. Unless your first language is from the same family of languages as the second like say, for instance, English and French, this is a big mistake and will cause you no end of confusion!
For this, and many other reasons, I strongly advise you to at least try and leave your 'farang brain' at the airport. They'll take good care of it for you, they won't do anything bad with it, they'll be more than happy to give it back to you once you're on the 'plane home!
In this phrase there are two distinct words; Mai ไม่ and Dai ได้
Now, there are many Thai words that can be written in Roman script that appear to be the same, Mai is a very good case in point. The tones and vowel length make very different words indeed.
Mai Dai ไม่ได้, depending on it's place in the sentence, can mean 'did not' or 'can not'.
'Mai dai gin' ไม่ได้กิน (I/she/he/it/they/we/you) did not eat, 'gin mai dai' กินไม่ได้ (I/she/he/it/they/we/you) can not eat.
There is a Thai tongue-twister that goes like this;
(In English) "New wood doesn't burn well does it?"
(in Thai) ไม้ ใหม่ ไม่ ไหม้ ไหม now, in the Thai script, each word looks different (I've separated the words which is something not done in written Thai), slightly different I admit, but different none the less. If that same phrase is transliterated into Roman letters you get; 'mai mai mai mai mai' That doesn't give you the tones or the vowel length really does it? You should end up with; 'high and long(ish)' 'low and short(er)' 'high and short' 'high and short' 'rising' Easy! (I have to say, there will not be many situations where you might need to actually say this, and if you do, you can just point and say "mai dai!")
Which is one reason it's important to learn Thai script as soon as possible. (Another may be that when you can read Thai you can see how different the admission prices for foreigners are!)
Other words that may well cause difficulty are 'rice' and 'beautiful'. The rice on offer in restaurants, boiled rice, as we would call it, is called 'khao suay' ข้าวสวย which literally translated means 'beautiful rice'. The word we transliterate as 'khao' has other meanings too, depending on the tone used 'khao' เขา which has a rising tone (similar to the end of pretty much every sentence an Australian English speaker would utter), means 'mountain'. 'Khao' ข้าว (see the little symbol above the first letter?) has a falling tone, and means 'rice'.
'Suay' สวย, again has a rising tone and means 'beautiful'.
'Suay' ซวย, (different first letter means different 'tone rule') has a mid, or flat tone and means 'unlucky' or 'damned'
You may end up, if you're not brave enough to give it a try, being too scared to say that someone is beautiful in case you accidentally say they're the unluckiest woman you've seen today!
(I have, as I'm sure have many others, attempted to order 'boiled rice' in a restaurant whilst, in fact, asking for 'unlucky mountains' !)
Some useful Thai language links; Sign up for this one they email you a lesson every day.
This one is a great dictionary and has a downloadable version as well.
This is worth signing up for too and I recommend you buy this book.
Confused by the language? That's nothing to the confusion you'll encounter when dealing with Thai officialdom.
Which leads, by a circuitous route, to the point of this post!
You may have seen in my last effort, I, along with my girlfriend Bow, have been saving to buy a house in a village called Ban Sob Kham, which is just outside a town called Chiang Saen in Chiang Rai province, way way up in the very north of Thailand. It's a beautiful part of the world, very close to what's referred to as 'The Golden Triangle'
Here's a view of the beautiful River Mekong from Ban Sob Ruak, about 10km from Chiang Saen which is where three nations (Myanmar, or Burma, Laos PDR and Thailand) meet, forming the afore-mentioned triangle.
Here's the nice little cafe we visit every day in Chiang Saen,
Again, on the banks of what we call the River Mekong (that's another thing that gets lost in translation, the Thai word for 'river' is 'mae nam' literal translation would be 'mother water' but it's more complicatedly simple than that!) So, in Thai it's 'mae nam khong' แม่น้ำโ